Remember Jim & Babs Archer, founders of The Clothes Hanger on Front Street? Sadly, they left us a while back, heading for the exotic Portugese island of Madeira. Happily, through the wonders of the internet, we have them back - virtually! This is the first of an irregular series of contributions from our friends over there, keeping us posted on their adventures, with an occasional comparison to life on an island off the coat of North Africa and lif in our little village on the shores of Kootenay Lake. We obvious need a couple of new kaslo.org categories - Travel, and Correspondence!

A Madeiran Adventure

Our adventure started by taking our leave of Kaslo on a cool October 25th morning last year when Dave and Mabel Russell drove Barbara and I to Kelowna where I said goodbye to my Cardiologist……. , then on to Vancouver for a couple of damp nights stay with old pals, finally jetting off to London on Sunday 28th.

We arrived in Madeira on October 30th after a 3 ½ hour flight from Gatwick at about 6 pm. It was a balmy 20 degrees and just pre sunset as we left the airport with our host, for me the very first time on Madeiran soil - Barbara had been here about 6 times in a previous life….

The airport is located on the SE coast literally perched aside the Atlantic ocean and is about 20 km East of the capital city Funchal. I was charmed by the fantastic views to from the Via Rapido to my left, seeing below the coastal resorts and fishing villages, every 4 km or so to Funchal . To my right the immediate almost sheer slopes rising up the various volcanic scoured valleys to the more elevated communities, with lush cultivated terraced greenery, which I later found to be the growing areas here, up to 1000metres elevation !

The via Rapido is a modern highway serving the south coast from east to west
( about 50 km long ), with lots of tunnels cutting through the mountainous terrain. Many of the tunnels are less than 3 years old and now reduce the journey which was formerly slow and precarious, having to climb up and down the sloping and very hilly roads which connect the communities from sea level to over 1000 metres elevation. Our host told us the journey from airport to Funchal used to take an hour minimum, we were there in 15 minutes.

The views approaching Funchal are wonderful , with pantiled roofs galore and narrow winding roads all leading down to the harbour, old town and Lido (tourist areas ). We continued along the VR beyond the approaches to Funchal about 25 more km’s and arrived at our journey’s end at Madalena do Mar, a small village right at the ‘ seaside’ as the sun was setting and were shown our apartment and home for the next 10 months…..

Some Facts :

Madeira is a small autonomous Portuguese Island located about 500 km Northwest of Casablanca and 1000km South west of Lisbon , it was first inhabited in the 15th Century.
The capital, Funchal is less than 4 hours flight from all major Capital cities in Europe, the Mediterranean and the Middle East.

Designated a 70% World Heritage ’ Natural Park’, this mountainous place breathes pollution free air throughout the region. Temperatures vary little, averaging 23 C in Summer and 17 C in Winter.


2.


Ponto do Sol / Madalena do Mar on the south coast records more sunshine and less rain than any other region, but in reality due to the Islands E - W geographical orientation and it’s size ( 57 km long x 30 km wide ) , virtually all coastal towns and villages see very good annual temperatures , this year 2008 , we have seen about 19 days of rain on the south coast, mainly overnight.
Any adverse weather patterns quickly pass over the Island and it has no history of any serious weather – floods – hurricanes – earth tremors in the past 120 years.

The Island’s volcanic origins have formed a very mountainous terrain, with altitudes of 1100-1800 metres as its central E-W spine, which is very lush and less populated than the coastal areas. Snow at the highest peaks is very rare, last seen in 1993……

As a consequence, this topography causes high rainfall at the steeper altitudes, which makes for a terrific supply of fresh, clean, cheap water to be available via the innovative use of ‘ Levadas ‘ which have been built over centuries. Hence the Island is nicknamed the ‘ Floating Garden ‘, famous for it’s flowers, banana plantations, grape vines, palms, sugar cane and fresh produce .

The essence of Madeira is one of ‘ relaxation ’ by way of a dramatic ‘ get away’ feeling from the pressures of world events, having embraced strong family values , excellent town and community Planning and now with easy road systems in place, is very affordable, cultured and extremely liveable.

Crime is minimal and unlawful Immigration is successfully controlled.
Locals, Retired and semi-retired persons receive excellent public and general Healthcare facilities without frustrations linked with overloaded public health services.

Property / House prices are affordable and most locations afford spectacular views of the sea , terra cotta pantile roofed homes and the stunning topography. Property, Sales and General taxes are low in Madeira. Electricity and gas prices are very affordable and use of Solar energy is mandatory for any new builds. Almost no heating / cooling in coastal homes needed year round. !
The cost of living is lower than almost any other country in Europe or North America and due to it’s size, gasoline consumption is therefore less , but driving is easy, fun and each bend in the road offers scenery which is not bettered anywhere on the planet.!

The City of Funchal has ancient churches,Theatres, Parks, Harbour and Marinas, cable cars, golf, great Hotels and restaurants, beautiful – historical architecture, walks and fun. This year is the 500 year anniversary of the cities inception.

First Impressions :

It’s small….. but size ain’t everything !!
Barbara and I have been living here as residents now for 9 months. We have decided to settle here and are currently having a house built about 4 km west of our apartment location and feel very much at home here.
The language difficulties haven’t been insurmountable as most officials, businesses, shops restaurants and their staff speak some English, typical of any European country which is dependant on tourism. We intend to try to learn Portuguese and make a bit more effort after we move into our house and start a new regime… ( will 1 brain cell do…?? ).






3.

The locals are very polite and friendly , quiet natured and family orientated who seem to make a good life on very low incomes ( average income here is 450 euros/ month … $800 ).Because of this, we can live very cheaply , probably at 40% less cost than our time in Canada , so our Pensions ……. Might just do..!?

The weather is fantastic – we have NEVER worn a jacket since arriving…..and the scenery is stunning – especially looking seaward. ( Today is 28 degs. )

Food is excellent, lots of choice especially fish, Espada ,dorada, red snapper, sea bream, grouper and more – all enjoyed with excellent Portuguese wine… the beers are ok as well Super bock and Coral on draught…… meats are good, but nothing compares to good old Canadian beef..!

We don’t own a boat – yet - , but are thinking about it as the watersports, sea activities are many and oddly, even though the Island is in the middle of no where…. It is well protected by the horn of Africa, so the sea is very calm on the south coast anyway.

Sorry to see that Golf is a ‘rich mans’ pastime here… ! One of the many things we still miss about Kaslo…. and of course, it is more difficult to meet English speaking friends, though we have made a few.

Highlights :

So, so many in the 9 months……..but for me, my 60th birthday with Babs spending 4 hours on a 23 metre catamaran, Seaborn, viewing whales with temperatures in the mid 20’s ( December 4th… ) , champagne, followed by a great meal.

New Years eve, dinner at ‘ House Jazz’ in Funchal , Chateau Briand, champagne and great wine, followed by again viewing the fantastic Christmas street decorations and 5 million lights, then off to see Europe’s best firework display - harbour side at midnight - joining 300,000 locals, 5 berthed cruise ship shore revellers, hotel guests, not a drunk in site, no bad language…… absolutely magic.

Joining John Eckland and his pal Mike for a day’s ‘ big game’ fishing on June 4th off Funchal and seeing John catch a 818lb Marlin… what an outstanding effort.

Seeing our house build progressing and waiting for the Pool to be ready……. and some more visitors next year ..?!

Being WELL again – can’t ‘throw away the pills’…. But doing great – it’s good to be vertical !!

No regrets.
Ain’t life Grand !!!


Jim and Barbara Archer,
Madalena Do Mar, Madeira, Portugal.